Whole-house repiping in Cypress, TX for polybutylene, galvanized and slab-leak homes
When a house has had its second or third slab leak, still has gray polybutylene, or can’t run a shower and a sink at the same time, patching stops making sense. We replace the supply lines, usually overhead through the attic and out of the clay, and leave the walls ready for paint.
Repiping in Cypress, TX means replacing every water supply line in the house, usually with PEX or copper run overhead through the attic and walls instead of under the slab. It makes sense after repeated slab leaks, with polybutylene or corroded galvanized pipe, or when flow is poor. Most homes stay livable during the work, and we give a written price first.
When should you repipe a Cypress house?
A repipe is a big decision, and most houses never need one. These are the situations where we recommend it, in rough order of how often we see them in Cypress.
Repeated slab leaks
A Houston plumbing company’s slab leak guide recommends repiping when leaks come back, typically by the second or third one. Each spot repair fixes one point on an old line, but the rest of that line is the same age and sits in the same moving clay.
Polybutylene supply lines
Gray plastic pipe, often stamped PB2110, was used in some Cypress homes from the late 80s to the mid 90s. InterNACHI notes it can make insurance harder to get and can slow a sale. Most owners replace it before it fails.
Galvanized steel pipe
Galvanized lines show up in some 1970s and early 80s Cypress homes. Building inspection firm StructureTech explains that galvanized pipe builds up sediment inside, shrinking the opening, and corrodes at the joints, which can lead to leaks.
Poor flow and low pressure
When the upstairs shower goes weak as soon as someone runs a sink, the pipe may be the bottleneck. StructureTech notes that what buyers call “good water pressure” usually means good flow, and that a burst of water followed by a sharp drop points to restricted flow.
Other reasons come up too: a remodel that opens most of the walls anyway, a house where the hot side has leaked in several places, or an owner who simply wants the supply lines out of the slab before selling. Age alone is not a reason. A 1998 house with healthy copper and no leak history usually doesn’t need a repipe.
If you aren’t sure whether you need a repipe or a single repair, start with the leak history. Our slab leak repair page explains the single-leak options, and our leak detection page covers how we confirm whether there’s one leak or several.
Polybutylene pipe in Cypress homes
Polybutylene, often called PB, is the one pipe material we recommend replacing even before it leaks. Here is what InterNACHI, the home inspector association, says about it:
- Dates. It was manufactured from 1978 to mid-1995 and installed in up to 10 million U.S. homes. Production stopped in mid-1996 after allegations that the pipes were rupturing and causing property damage.
- Why it fails. InterNACHI says certain disinfectants in water can react with polybutylene and cause it to flake apart anywhere in the system. Small fractures deepen over time until water escapes. Manufacturers argued most leaks happened at joints and unions.
- How to spot it. It is flexible, usually gray but sometimes white, silver, black or blue, typically 1/2 inch to 1 inch, and often stamped PB2110. It was used for supply, not drains.
- Where to look. Check the whole run. Some copper systems used PB in spots, such as where it connects to copper stub-outs at bathroom fixtures.
- Insurance and resale. Owners may face higher premiums or be denied coverage, and PB can lower a home’s value or keep it on the market longer.
- Lawsuits. Class actions against PB manufacturers led to payouts to homeowners reaching $1 billion.
InterNACHI also notes that replacement is not legally required. It’s a judgment call. In practice, most Cypress owners we talk to with PB plan to replace it, because a burst PB line in an attic or wall does far more damage than the repipe costs, and because buyers and insurers ask about it.
PEX vs copper vs CPVC for a Cypress repipe
Most repipes today use PEX or copper. CPVC still shows up in many Cypress homes from the late 80s through the 2000s, and some owners ask about it. Here’s how they compare for a house on clay with a hot attic.
| Factor | PEX | Copper | CPVC |
|---|---|---|---|
| What it is | Flexible cross-linked polyethylene tubing | Rigid metal tube, soldered or press-fitted | Rigid plastic pipe joined with solvent cement |
| Fittings and joints | Fewer joints, since it bends around corners; expansion, crimp, clamp, press or push fittings | A fitting at every turn | A glued fitting at every turn |
| Handling soil and slab movement | Flexes with small movement | Rigid; joints take the stress | Rigid; joints take the stress |
| Heat rating | Uponor AquaPEX: 180 degrees F at 100 psi, 200 degrees F at 80 psi (hydrostatic) | Handles high heat well | Check the manufacturer’s rating for the specific product |
| Sunlight | Must be protected from UV; limits vary by product | Not affected by UV | Follow the manufacturer’s guidance |
| Freezes | Can still fail in a hard freeze; insulate exposed runs | Can split when frozen; insulate exposed runs | Can crack when frozen; insulate exposed runs |
| Install time | Usually fastest, with long continuous runs | Slower; more joints and fire safety for soldering | Moderate; cement needs cure time |
| Material cost | Usually less than copper | Highest; Type L costs more than Type M | Moderate |
Copper: Type L vs Type M
If you choose copper, you’ll hear about Type L and Type M. Type L has thicker walls and a higher pressure rating: at 1/2 inch, Type M is 0.028 inches thick and Type L is 0.040 inches. Type L is color coded blue and Type M red. Type L costs more because it uses more copper. Both are used for residential water lines, though some local codes allow only Type L.
PEX-A vs PEX-B
Not all PEX is the same. The two types you’ll see in Cypress repipes are PEX-A and PEX-B. Plumbing supplier Ferguson’s installer guide sums up the differences:
| Factor | PEX-A | PEX-B |
|---|---|---|
| How it’s made | Peroxide (Engel) method; cross-linked during extrusion | Silane (moisture-cure) method; cross-linked after forming |
| Flexibility | The most flexible | Stiffer and less flexible |
| Kinks | Can be restored with a heat gun | Cut out the kink and replace the section |
| Fittings | Expansion fittings plus crimp, clamp, press and push | Insert fittings: crimp, clamp, press and push |
| Flow at fittings | Expansion fittings don’t reduce the inside diameter | Insert fittings narrow the opening at each joint |
| Chlorine resistance | Slightly lower than PEX-B | Highest of the PEX types |
| Cost | More expensive | Moderate; generally the most budget-friendly |
Both are used for drinking water lines and must be installed to the manufacturer’s instructions. We’ll tell you which we’re quoting and why. In a two-story house with long runs, the flexibility and full-bore fittings of PEX-A are a real advantage. On a tighter budget, PEX-B does the job well when installed correctly.
Running new pipe through a hot Cypress attic
Most Cypress repipes go overhead. Moving the supply lines out of the slab and into the attic and walls takes them away from the clay that broke the old ones. But a Cypress attic in August is no gentle place for pipe. Outdoor highs at Bush Intercontinental average 94.9 degrees F in August, and attics run hotter than the air outside. Then a few nights a year it freezes: IAH averages about 9.6 days a year at or below freezing. Good attic routing plans for both.
Heat
The Plastics Pipe Institute‘s PEX design guide says PEX surface temperature should stay at or below 180 degrees F, and that frequent or long-term exposure above that may cause early failure. Uponor’s installation guide rates its AquaPEX tubing at 180 degrees F at 100 psi and 200 degrees F at 80 psi in hydrostatic tests. Attic air alone doesn’t reach those numbers, but things in the attic can. That’s why clearances matter:
- Recessed lights. Uponor calls for at least 2 inches from insulation contact (IC) rated fixtures and 12 inches from non-IC fixtures, or approved insulation if closer. The PPI guide notes that IC fixtures can reach about 194 degrees F on the outside and non-IC fixtures about 300 degrees F.
- Appliance vents. Uponor calls for at least 6 inches from vent pipes on gas appliances, and 1 inch from double-wall B vents or zero-clearance plastic vents.
- Gas water heaters. The PPI guide says to keep PEX at least 6 inches from the flue, or use a metal connector at least 18 inches long. Attic water heater replacements are covered on our water heater replacement page.
- Soldering nearby. Uponor says no soldering, brazing or welding within 18 inches of its PEX on the same water line.
Sunlight and UV
PEX doesn’t like sunlight. The PPI guide says PEX should not be stored outdoors in the sun, and that each manufacturer publishes its own maximum UV exposure time. Uponor’s guide says its white AquaPEX should not be exposed to direct sunlight for more than one month, and its red and blue AquaPEX for no more than six months. Uponor also says not to install it within 5 feet of direct view of fluorescent or LED lighting without UV protection. In practice that means we keep tubing boxed until it goes in, and we cover or sleeve any run near a gable vent, a ridge vent opening or an attic light.
Support and expansion
PEX grows and shrinks with temperature. The PPI guide gives about 1.1 inches of expansion per 10 degrees F per 100 feet of tubing, and recommends about 1/8 inch of slack per foot so it isn’t pulled tight. It also calls for supports at least every 32 inches on horizontal runs of 1 inch and smaller. A tidy attic run with proper hangers and a little slack lasts. A tight run zip-tied to a truss doesn’t.
Freezes
Cypress-area MUDs such as Kingsbridge MUD and Harris County MUD 188 issued hard freeze warnings on January 21 and January 30, 2026, telling residents to insulate pipes. Winter Storm Uri in February 2021 left tens of thousands of Houston-area homes with burst pipes. New attic lines should be run on the warm side of the attic insulation where possible, kept away from soffit and gable vents, and insulated where they’re exposed. Our burst pipe repair page covers freeze prep in more detail.
The repiping process, day by day
Every house is different, so these are general stages rather than a fixed schedule. A one-story house with good attic access moves faster than a two-story with bathrooms stacked over finished rooms. You’ll get a written timeline with your price.
Walkthrough and written price
We look at the current pipe, the attic, the fixture locations and the water heater, then lay out the route. You get a written price that spells out the pipe material, the number of fixtures, drywall openings and patching, and any permit.
Protect the house
On day one we lay drop cloths along the work paths, wear shoe covers and cover furniture near the walls we’ll open. Valuables and fragile items near those walls should be moved before we arrive.
Open small access points
We cut neat openings in drywall behind fixtures and at points along the route, planning them for closets, the backs of cabinets and less visible walls when we can.
Run the new lines
New supply lines go through the attic and down the walls to each fixture, the water heater, the washer box, the ice maker and the hose bibs. Water is shut off only during connection work, and most families have running water each evening.
Connect and abandon the old pipe
Each fixture is switched to the new line. The old under-slab or in-wall pipe is cut off and left in place, since removing it from the slab would mean breaking concrete for no benefit.
Pressure test and inspect
We pressure test the new system before closing anything up. If a permit applies, the inspection happens at this stage so the inspector can see the work.
Patch the drywall and clean up
Openings are patched and textured to match as closely as we can, and the house is cleaned and the debris hauled away. Paint is usually the last step, and we’ll tell you up front whether it’s in our price.
Whether you can stay home during a repipe depends on the house, but most families do. Bathrooms are switched over one at a time where possible, so you’re not without a working shower for long.
Drywall openings and patching
The most common worry about repiping is the walls. It’s a fair one. Here’s what to expect in a typical Cypress house.
Openings are usually small and targeted: one behind each fixture, plus a few along the route where a line drops from the attic into a wall. In a one-story house, most drops come straight down from the attic, so openings stay small. In a two-story house, lines to downstairs fixtures under upstairs rooms sometimes need a ceiling opening or a run through a closet or chase.
We plan openings to land where they’re least visible: inside closets, behind the washer, under sinks and inside cabinet backs. Showers and tubs with tile walls are usually reached from the back side, through the wall of the next room or a closet, so the tile isn’t touched.
Patching means new drywall, tape, mud and texture matched to the existing finish. Texture matching on builder-era orange peel or knockdown is usually close, but a fresh patch rarely matches old paint exactly. Many owners repaint the full wall, and some time a repipe with planned interior painting.
Kitchens
Lines run behind the sink base and to the fridge ice maker. Openings are usually inside the sink cabinet.
Bathrooms
Openings behind the vanity and at the tub or shower valve, usually from the back side of the wall.
Laundry and garage
The washer box, water heater and main shutoff are often in or next to the garage, which keeps those openings out of living space.
Permits, inspections and licensed plumbers
Repiping is plumbing work that has to be done by licensed plumbers in Texas. The Texas State Board of Plumbing Examiners (TSBPE) licenses plumbers and runs a free public license search at tsbpe.texas.gov. Every plumbing company must operate under a Responsible Master Plumber. Every job we do is handled by Texas-licensed plumbers.
Permit rules depend on where the house is. Cypress is unincorporated Harris County, inside Houston’s extraterritorial jurisdiction, and permit requirements can differ by location and by the scope of work. We pull permits when work requires them, and your written price says whether a permit and inspection apply to your repipe. When there is an inspection, it happens before the walls are closed so the inspector can see the pipe, supports and connections.
A few other things to keep in mind:
- HOA rules. Interior work is usually an HOA non-issue, but if any work touches the outside of the house or the yard, check your deed restrictions.
- Water heater connections. If the heater is being replaced at the same time, that’s separate permitted work with its own inspection items, such as T&P discharge, an expansion tank on closed systems and a drain pan in attics.
- Paperwork for the future. Keep the permit, the inspection result and your invoice. Buyers, insurers and appraisers may ask when the supply lines were replaced.
What drives repiping cost in Cypress
We don’t publish a flat repipe price, because two houses with the same square footage can be very different jobs. InterNACHI describes replacing polybutylene as costing several thousand dollars, which is a fair general expectation, but your number depends on the factors below. We give a written price after a walkthrough, before any work starts.
| Cost driver | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Number of fixtures | Each sink, toilet, shower, tub, hose bib, ice maker and washer box is a connection point and an opening |
| Number of bathrooms | Bathrooms carry the most fixtures and tile walls that need back-side access |
| One story or two | Two-story homes need routes from the attic down to first-floor fixtures under finished rooms |
| Attic access and space | A walkable attic over the wet rooms is faster than a low-pitch roof or a finished bonus room |
| Pipe material | Copper costs more in material and labor than PEX; PEX-A costs more than PEX-B |
| Drywall and paint scope | Patching is part of the job; paint may or may not be included, so check your quote |
| Main line and yard line | Replacing the line from the meter to the house is a separate scope that adds trenching |
| Permits | Where a permit applies, the fee and inspection visit are part of the cost |
| Add-ons | New shutoff valves, a pressure regulator, a water heater swap or a softener loop while the walls are open |
It helps to compare a repipe against the alternative. A Houston plumbing company’s guide puts a single slab leak repair at about $1,800 to $6,000 in Houston. A house on its second or third slab leak has already spent a meaningful share of a repipe on repairs that fixed one spot each. For general pricing context, see the cost section on our homepage.
Third-party figures here are general references only and are not our prices. We give a written price for your house before work starts.
Partial repipe or whole house?
Not every house needs every line replaced. A partial repipe moves one part of the system, most often the hot side, out of the slab. It’s a good fit when:
- The house has had one or two leaks, both on the hot side.
- The cold side tests tight and the pipe material is otherwise sound.
- Budget matters now and a full repipe can wait.
A whole-house repipe makes more sense when:
- The house has polybutylene or galvanized supply lines anywhere in the system.
- Leaks have hit both hot and cold sides.
- Flow is poor throughout the house, not just at one fixture.
- You’re planning a remodel or a sale and want a clean answer for buyers and insurers.
A North Texas plumbing company describes rerouting and repiping as less disruptive than breaking the slab, with no need to move out, but notes the new lines have to be installed carefully in walls and attics. That’s the trade: more planning up front in exchange for supply lines that no longer live in the clay.
Cypress neighborhoods and house ages most likely to need repiping
Pipe material in Cypress follows the era a house was built. These are general patterns, not rules, and any individual house may have been partly repiped already.
Lakewood Forest
Lakewood Forest, near Hwy 249, dates to the 1970s with building into the early 2000s. Homes from the 1970s and early 80s often have copper or galvanized supply lines, and by now many are past the 30 to 50 year range one Houston plumber gives for under-slab pipe. Repeat slab leaks and galvanized flow problems make this one of the areas where we discuss repiping most.
Ravensway
Ravensway, near Grant Rd and Telge Rd, was built from the 1970s through the early 2000s on large lots. The range of ages means a wide range of pipe, from older copper and galvanized to later copper and CPVC. Large lots also mean long yard lines from the meter, which are often worth replacing during a repipe.
Fairfield
Fairfield began in 1988, north of US-290 between Mason Rd and the Grand Parkway, with about 5,400 to 5,800 homes in eight villages. Homes from the late 80s to mid 90s are the era when polybutylene appeared alongside copper and CPVC. If you own an early Fairfield home, check for PB2110 under the sinks.
Other 1990s and 2000s areas
Longwood Village, Cypress Mill and Cypress Point date to the 1990s and early 2000s; Coles Crossing to 1998 through 2008. Most have copper or CPVC. Repipes here are usually driven by repeat slab leaks rather than the material itself.
Newer 77433 communities, like Bridgeland, Miramesa and Dunham Pointe, mostly have PEX supply lines from the start and rarely need repiping for material reasons.
What buyers, sellers and landlords should check
- Buyers: look under every sink and at the water heater for gray PB2110 pipe or threaded galvanized fittings. Ask for any repipe invoice and permit. InterNACHI notes home inspectors aren’t required to report polybutylene, so look yourself.
- Sellers: a documented repipe with a passed inspection answers buyer and insurer questions before they’re asked. If you have PB, expect it to come up.
- Landlords: a rental with repeated slab leaks costs you in repairs, water and tenant disruption each time. A planned repipe between tenants is easier than an emergency mid-lease.
- Everyone: our property owner section covers shutoffs and other basics.
Questions Cypress homeowners ask about repiping
How do I know if my Cypress house needs to be repiped?
The usual signs are a second or third slab leak, polybutylene or galvanized supply pipe, and poor flow throughout the house. A Houston plumbing company’s guide recommends repiping when leaks come back, typically by the second or third one.
Is PEX or copper better for repiping in Cypress?
Both work. PEX flexes with small movement, has fewer joints and usually costs less. Copper is rigid and handles heat and sunlight well but costs more. In a hot Cypress attic, PEX needs proper clearances from heat sources and protection from UV.
What is the difference between PEX-A and PEX-B?
PEX-A is made by the peroxide (Engel) method, is more flexible, can have kinks fixed with heat and uses expansion fittings that don’t narrow the pipe. PEX-B is stiffer, uses insert fittings, has the highest chlorine resistance of the PEX types and usually costs less.
Can PEX be run in a hot Texas attic?
Yes, with care. The Plastics Pipe Institute says PEX surface temperature should stay at or below 180 degrees F. Uponor calls for clearances from recessed lights and appliance vents and limits sunlight exposure, so routing and protection matter.
Should I replace polybutylene pipe before it leaks?
Replacement isn’t legally required, but InterNACHI notes polybutylene can raise insurance premiums, lead to denied coverage and lower a home’s value. Most owners we talk to replace it before a failure causes water damage.
How long does a whole-house repipe take?
It depends on the size of the house, the number of fixtures, one or two stories and attic access. Your written price includes a timeline. Most families keep running water each evening during the work.
Can I stay in my home during repiping?
Most families do. Water is shut off during connection work, and bathrooms are switched over one at a time where possible. We lay drop cloths, wear shoe covers and haul away debris each day.
Do you have to open my walls to repipe?
Yes, but the openings are small and targeted, usually behind fixtures and where lines drop from the attic. We plan them for closets, cabinet backs and less visible walls, then patch and texture them.
Does repiping require a permit in Cypress?
Permit requirements depend on the location and scope of the work. Cypress is unincorporated Harris County in Houston’s extraterritorial jurisdiction. We pull permits when work requires them, and your written price says whether one applies.
How much does it cost to repipe a house in Cypress?
It depends on the number of fixtures and bathrooms, one or two stories, attic access, pipe material and drywall scope. InterNACHI describes polybutylene replacement as costing several thousand dollars. We give a written price after a walkthrough.
Should the yard line be replaced during a repipe?
Often it’s worth considering. The line from the MUD meter to the house belongs to the homeowner and sits in the same clay. If it’s old or has leaked, replacing it at the same time is a separate scope we can price.
Sources and further reading
Facts on this page come from these public sources, checked in October 2026. Links open in a new tab.
Related plumbing services in Cypress
Cypress neighborhood guides for this service: plumbing in Ravensway, plumbing in Longwood Village, plumbing in Cypress Mill.
If your house is on its second slab leak, still has polybutylene, or can’t keep up with two showers, we can walk the house and give you a written repipe price. Call (281) 664-2542.
Leaking attic heater in Bridgeland, slab leak in Fairfield or a backup in Lakewood Forest?
You get a Texas-licensed plumber, a written price before work starts, and a clean house when we leave. Any hour, any day, anywhere in Cypress.